Do you know the difference between "you can" and "you are allowed to"? Of course you do - and as you know one may not always be allowed to do all the things one could. Sometimes these rules make sense, sometimes they seem to be a drag. Like, why should I not take my rental car from California into Mexico? Hard to comprehend at times ... it is far easier to understand why the captain of the "Titanic" should not have ignored those iceberg warnings.

Now icebergs are comparatively rare on Ireland's inland waterways and there is no Mexican border. But still there are rules to be obeyed, laid down by the rental boat companies. And a worrying trend is the blatant flaunting of these rules in word and deed. Over the last months more and more "insider information" has been making the rounds on the internet on where to go ... despite the rental companies' ban on going there. Always with a fig-leaf disclaimer that to do so would contravene the rental agreement. A bit like saying "shoplifting is illegal but here are a few hints how not to get caught".

Unfortunately one fact that these pied pipers (and those mindlessly following them) ignore is that getting caught may be the least of your worries. Staying afloat or even alive might be a more pressing concern.

Some examples of "insider hints" recently found on websites and bulletin boards:

• "River X is shown as being off limits on the rental companies' maps, but you may safely navigate it until the stone bridge comes into sight." Now let us not discuss the rather hazy definition of distance here, let us look at why the river is off limits. The reason is simple: it is normally not deep enough for most cruisers and turning around is all but impossible.
• "Despite what rental agencies say, navigation near the Ardnacrusha power generating station is possible." Yes, up to a point - when you try to get away from it and the turbines are running at full power, all commonly available cruisers will go backwards. Despite being on full steam ahead. Sucked into the danger zone.
• "You can go past Ardnacrusha by a system of locks." True again, but then you will find yourself in the Shannon Estuary, which is tidal and has real shipping. And if you then go into the wrong direction your next refuelling point will be Boston Harbor.
• "Unless satellite tracking is introduced, how will anyone notice?" Well, your SOS, Mayday or that Coast Guard helicopter searching for survivors might be a give-away ....

Just in case you should wonder - no insurance will cover you while you are following the pied piper. Apart from this (hopefully) sobering fact, you should consider the reality that any waters rated "off limits" may pose a danger to your health or even life. So ... is it worth the risk? I don't think so.

And by the way: should anything go wrong, don't even think about blaming the pied piper. He'll sit at home, snug and sound, smugly pointing at his disclaimer. Puffing on a tobacco pipe and swearing that he never did any other piping at all, let alone pied.

Photo © 2007 Bernd Biege licensed to About.com, Inc.

Staying on a nautical theme some words on choosing the right cabin cruiser in Ireland are a good follow-up on the general introduction to this type of vacation.

While most boats are broadly similar, the actual internal layout will have the greatest bearing on the enjoyment of an extended trip. Families might prefer the cozy boat with just one bathroom, but several couples travelling together should aim for privacy and more facilities. Cabin fever in the middle of an Irish lake is not really a memory you will cherish. So choose wisely when selecting a boat.

Photo © Waveline Cruisers Ltd, used with permission

Cruising Ireland's inland waterways is a vacation with a difference - every year hundreds of landlubbers become "Captain for a Week", hire a cabin cruiser and then set off to explore Lough Erne, the Shannon or wherever their fancy takes them.

While this might not lead you to all the highlights of Ireland, it will certainly show you a different perspective of the island. You might even reach places other tourists generally have to give a miss. And unforgettable sunsets on tranquil lakes are the stuff that dreams are made of.

The good news: you don't need to be a proficient sailor to do so. In Ireland no license is required to hire a boat and cruise the inland waterways ... so this vacation is ideal for nautical beginners. And for families ... you'll certainly spend quality time.

Photo © 2005 Bernd Biege licensed to About.com, Inc.

Ulrich Schulte-Strathaus has hit out at Irish policies regarding air traffic: "It doesn't take a genius to work out what will happen when you put a €10 surcharge on airfares in the middle of the worst recession on record - your traffic will go into free-fall. If this results in a massive hike in user fees, you have initiated a vicious spiral which, for the sake of the Irish economy and the travelling public, cannot be allowed to take hold." Strong words. But who is he?

Schulte-Strathaus is the Secretary General of the Association of European Airlines (AEA). And thus speaking for several of the most important airlines in Europe, amongst the 33 members are well-known names like Iberia, Lufthansa, Swiss, British Airways, Air France and Aer Lingus. And these are amongst the angry crowd gearing up for another Irish budget in December ... and further expected costs.

The situation of airlines is, to say the least, difficult: Just months after the introduction of the Irish air passenger tax, which has added € 10 to passenger journeys and contributed to a fall in passenger numbers at Irish airports of 15% this summer, comes the news that Ireland's air navigation provider will increase the fees it charges its airline customers by 17% next year. And we'll have to wait what more surprises the December budget might bring!

As the AEA so bluntly asked in a press release: "Ireland Determined to Become a No-Fly Zone?"

Hot on the heels of Ryanair's rise in revenue comes news that Aer Lingus seems to be heading further on in its downward spiral - revenue at the end of September was down around ten percent and net cash shrunk to € 399 million - compared with € 653.9 million a year earlier.

While restructuring, route changes and redundancies are already in the pipeline, assets are coming up for ales as well: According to media reports the fleet will be cut down. Aer Lingus seems to be is considering offers on four A330s, three A321s and four A320s. As the number of planes in the fleet currently stands at 44, this would mean a reduction by 25%. It is difficult to see this happening without some kind of lease-back deal to cover the bare bones of the route network.

Potential buyers of Aer Lingus' planes will certainly get no spring chickens ... the Airbuses for sale are all believed to be at least eight years old.

There should be cause for celebration in Ryanair's austere HQ, revenues for Ireland's largest airline on September 30th 2009 were up by 80% compared to last year. But it is not as it seems - despite a rise in passenger numbers by 15% to 36,400,000 ... the lower fares meant declining profits here, masked by a massive reduction in fuel costs.

CEO Michael O'Leary gave the details: "Ryanair's ability to grow both traffic and profits during the half year is a testament to the strength of Ryanair's lowest fare model, and our relentless cost discipline. However these results are heavily distorted by a 42% fall in fuel costs, which has masked a significant 17% decline in average fares."

He is, however, adamant as ever that Ryanair will "be substantially profitable, at a time when many of our competitors are losing money, consolidating or going bust."

Now that's what I call interesting - three men who are normally at each others throats a suddenly singing from the same hymn sheet: Christoph Müller (Aer Lingus), Geoffrey O'Byrne-White (Cityjet) and Michael O'Leary (Ryanair) in rare unison asked the Irish Government to axe the €10 tourist tax, introduced on 1st April last (an auspicious date, but it was no joke).

The airline CEOs raised the following concerns:

• Since the €10 tourist tax was imposed, the monthly traffic at Dublin Airport has fallen by up to 15%.
• In 2009 Dublin Airport will lose some 3,000,000 passengers, as traffic falls from 24 million to around 21 million.

Doom and gloom indeed, especially since other European countries act markedly different: Both the Belgian and Dutch governments have recently scrapped passenger taxes to stimulate tourism and the Greek and Spanish governments have reduced airport charges.

Well, let's see what December's budget will bring ...

This Sunday is Remembrance Day, the solemn occasion on which the dead of all wars are honored and, most importantly, remembered. It developed out of Armistice Day, the remembrance of the "Great War", ending on the 11th minute of the 11th hour of the 11th day of the 11th month ... in 1918, ninety-one years ago.

Remembrance Day manages to divide and unite (at the same time) communities all over Ireland - due to its British origin and its focus on soldiers fighting for the English crown. While nationalists abhor Remembrance Day, loyalists attach an importance to the day second only to July 12th. And what was conceived as an all-inclusive day of remembrance for the dead of wars past became a blatant advertisement for the madness of the war present in Northern Ireland - in Enniskillen in 1987.

Read up on Remembrance Day and feel free to ignore the ceremonies or to join in. After all, the shadows of grave markers in war cemeteries seem to be the same length, regardless of whichever nation, class, creed or race the living belonged to.

Photo © 2007 Bernd Biege licensed to About.com, Inc.

It must have been a great idea at the time - Kevin (soon to be Saint Kevin) was looking for a place to be home alone, to lose himself in prayer and contemplation. Wandering the wild Wicklow mountains he happened upon a valley. Where two lakes, connected by a stream, provided nourishment and a spectacular view. That was Kevin settled then.

Unfortunately the patient saint, who famously allowed a bird to nest in his outstretched hands, started a trend. Not only monks flocked into the "valley of the two lakes" (or, in Irish, Glendalough). Kevin had built up a secular fan-base as well. Which annoyed the reclusive man quite a bit. So much so that he countered the amorous advances of a woman by pushing her into a patch of nettles.

These days you are more likely to suffer a close encounter with vegetation on holiday weekends, when hordes of tourists flock to Glendalough and provide a mobile, ever-moving obstacle course. If you can, go during the week, maybe even in the off-season. And for a first, peaceful look, have a peek at my image gallery of Gleandalough ...

Photo © 2008 Bernd Biege licensed to About.com, Inc.

Ireland was once known as the "Island of Saints and Scholars". Which in medieval times was one and the same - as a scholar you were a churchperson and required to be at least moderately saintly per se. Unless you followed the path of a sinner and heretic. In which case your scholarly prowess wasn't worth a penny. And your life even less.

Apart from my own "Top Ten" of Irish saints, other About.com guides have tackled this subject:

• Saint Brendan's Cross is found on Alternative Religions,
• Melissa Snell of Medieval History has some information on Saint Brigit,
• Saint Columba makes a surprising appearance on Austin Cline's Atheism site and
• a famous discovery of Irish monks is featured on Stacy Slinkard's Wine site ... mead!