Enniskillen - basic facts on this Fermanagh town.
Location
Enniskillen is in County Fermanagh, straddling the small waterway between Lower und Upper Lough Erne.
Population
Roughly 14,000 inhabitants.
History
Enniskillen (from inis ceithleann, literally "Cethlenn's Island") was the reputed haunt of the Fomorian pirate Balor's wife Cethlenn. Situated on a strategic island in Lough Erne it was always a stronghold. The first proper castle was built in the 15th century by Hugh Maguire, only to be besieged, taken and rebuilt by William Cole. In 1611 Cole decided to build a whole new town as well - his plans still dominate the town center (making it a narrow traffic nightmare at times). Mainly due to its location the town propered and managed to survive several wars. In the late 18th and during the 19th century many splendid urban buildings rose, including St. Macartan's Cathedral (Church of Ireland). Enniskillen gained unwanted notority when an IRA bomb exploded just before the Remembrance Day ceremony on November 8th, 1987 - killing eleven people (all but one civilians) and wounding another 63. The victims of this atrocity are now remembered by small bird sculptures on the War Memorial.
Enniskillen today
While the area around the War Memorial had to be substantially rebuilt, the rest of the town center still conforms to 1611 planning. With severe consequences for traffic. Outside the center planning has been more relaxed, with some architectural mistakes in plain view. The town is striving and a county town in the historical sense (strictly speaking there are no counties anymore in Northern Ireland). The ongoing peace process in Northern Ireland has also given Enniskillen back its historic hinterland, with shoppers flocking in from the Republic.
What to expect
A busy county town with a traffic problem due to narrow streets and inconsiderate parking. Use one of the many free parking lots outside the central area and explore the shops and attractions on foot. During term time it gets hectic around noon, kids in school uniforms suddenly seem to make up 90% of the population. Shopping opportunities are good - I would wholeheartedly recommend the local butchers for bacon, sausages and haggis (a Scottish speciality quite popular here).
When to visit
Any time of the year, really - you can always duck into a pub or café in bad weather. Shopping is easiest from 9 am to 12 noon and after 2 pm due to the local student population.
Places to visit
Enniskillen itself has few attractions, but the castle is well worth a visit. So is the Buttermarket, an arts and craft center boasting an excellent (albeit busy) café. Those feeling more energetic should head up to the Cole Monument, from its top you have great views across Enniskillen and Lough Erne (enquire at the Tourist Office next to the bus station about opening times and tickets first).
Nearby you will find Castle Coole, Florence Court House, the Marble Arch Caves and the Castle Archdale Country Park. Or consider a complete tour of Lower Lough Erne for a day trip.
