Jerpoint Abbey, Thomastown (County Kilkenny)

Jerpoint Abbey must be a strong contender for the most picturesque abbey ruin in Ireland (the best view is, unfortunately, from the busy road). And it ranks high up the list of places that really needs to be explored in a guided tour. Unless you are fairly familiar with ecclesiastical ruins you will need some explanations. And the guides also point out the best bits ... which you otherwise might miss.

Jerpoint Abbey makes an impressive sight even today, looking like a strange mix of fortification and retreat. The (partly restored) ruins still command respect, the cloisters still convey the feeling as if a few contemplative monks may be just around the corner. Which they are not, unless in spirit - the abbey was dissolved in 1539 by Henry VIII. Thus ended a long history:

Founded by local king Donal Mac Gillapatrick in 1158 for the Benedictines, it became property of the Cistercians in 1180. The original, Romanesque, structure can still be seen. Indeed it has held up best.

Jerpoint's uniqueness, however, is carved in stone. It is said that the illustrations in medieval manuscripts were the monks' cries for some light relief. The Cistercians of Jerpoint were positively shouting at the top of their voices and had stonemasons manufacture some of the best Irish carvings. Visitors should take time to examine the cloisters' detail - the odd carving of a bishop is accompanied by knights in splendid armor, courtly damsels in rich robes and the occasional fabulous beast. Further exquisite carvings adorn the many tombs, effigies of former bishops and donors are decorating the abbey throughout. An ecclesiastical history carved in stone, with some observations of everyday life thrown in.