Drogheda straddles the mouth of the Boyne and is the southernmost town in County Louth - indeed part of Drogheda was in County Meath once. Long known as a bottleneck on the road from Dublin to Belfast, it is now bypassed via the Boyne bridge and the M1 ... a connection locals might wish to have existed in Cromwell's time ...
Drogheda in a Nutshell
Drogheda is an industrial center and has a (though not immediately obvious) port that once contributed to the town's prosperity, but now is in a not very picturesque state. The latter might be said for many areas of the town centre, as fine Georgian buildings are allowed to fall into disrepair next to new commercial developments and medieval ruins are crowded by non-descript vernacular buildings. Walking through Drogheda, especially on a grey, rainy day, can be something of a slightly depressing experience. But there are some highlights that make visiting the town worthwhile to those willing to seek them out.
A Short History of Drogheda
Drogheda's name is derived from the Irish "Droichead Átha", literally "bridge of the ford", a name that encapsulates the reason for the settlement - here was a ford and later a bridge that formed part of the main North-South route on the Eastern coast. A place for trade and defence. No wonder that two towns sprung up: Drogheda-in-Meath and Drogheda-in-Oriel. Finally in 1412 the two Droghedas became one "County of the Town of Drogheda". In 1898 the town, still retaining some independence, became part of County Louth.
During the middle ages, Drogheda as a walled town formed an important part of the "pale" and also played host to the Irish Parliament at times. Being strategically important guaranteed an unpeaceful existence, the town was besieged several times. The most infamous siege ended with Oliver Cromwell taking Drogheda in September 1649. What happened next is deeply ingrained into the collective Irish psyche - Cromwell's massacre of the Royalist garrison and Drogheda's civilian population. The facts are still disputed ...
In the Williamite Wars, Drogheda was well defended ... and King Williams troops decided to by-pass it, fording the Boyne at Oldbridge. The Battle of the Boyne in 1690 is still one of Ireland's most important events in history.
During the 19th century Drogheda reinvented itself as a commercial and industrial centre, from 1825 the "Drogheda Steam Packet Company" providing a maritime link to Liverpool. The town's motto "God Our Strength, Merchandise Our Glory" said it all - though the 20th century saw a slight decline in fortunes. The town still retained some industry and the service sector replaced others. A large influx of inhabitants came during the "Celtic Tiger" years, when Drogheda suddenly formed part of the commuter belt for Dublin.
Places to Visit in Drogheda
A stroll through Drogheda's centre will take less than an hour and take in most attractions – the Millmount Museum being the exception. Parking can be a bit problematic at times, follow the signs and take the first opportunity (town centre traffic being maddening here). Then explore on foot:
- St. Laurence's Gate (corner of Laurence Street and Palace Street) is an almost complete part of the medieval town wall and still imposing – traffic flows through it though and the built-up surroundings somehow detract from the gate. From here you are still able to trace the town's former boundaries by following the roads that replaced the ramparts.
- St. Mary Magdalen's Tower (between Magdalen Street Upper and Patrick Street) is all that remains of the friary of that name on one of the highest points in the town, a splendid medieval belfry.
- St. Peter's Church (Church of Ireland, Peter Street) is interesting for its churchyard – set in a wall behind the church you will find a medieval grave slab that depicts the departed as skeletons barely dressed in funeral sheets. This realistic image, serving as a memento mori for those left behind, was in vogue for a short period and contrasts with the more sumptuous imagery an more conventional medieval graves.
- St. Peter's Church (Roman-Catholic, West Street), a huge Catholic church right in the town centre and a place of pilgrimage, here the head of St. Oliver Plunkett can be seen. In a shrine behind glass, the somehow shrivelled countenance of Ireland's latest saint is not a pretty sight. A small exhibition also informs visitors of St. Oliver Plunkett's martyrdom at the hands of the English.
- The still impressive Tholsel, the old town hall, can be found on the corner of West Street and Shop Street.
- The Millmount Museum in Barrack Street on the site of a former castle, the museum towers over Drogheda, albeit from the far (southern) side of the river. The exhibitions on local history and industry are worth a visit.
Drogheda Miscellany
Visitors interested in railway history should visit the Irish Rail station (some old buildings just off the Dublin Road) and have a look at the impressive Boyne Viaduct.
Drogheda United is one of the more notable soccer teams in Ireland, winning several trophies – their home ground can be found in Windmill Road.
Local myth perpetuates the story that star and crescent were added to the town arms because the Ottoman Empire dispatched ships with food to Drogheda during the great famine. Unfortunately no historical records support this and ... the symbols also predate the famine.
