If Dublin has a towering literary figure it would be James Joyce. Though not amongst Ireland's four winners of the Nobel Prize for Literature, even though more discussed than read and even though Joyce himself left Dublin in disgust as early as 1904. With his "Dubliners" and "Ulysses" he created literary monuments to his native city. Which in turn conveniently forgets that Joyce hated her.
Though all Dublin can be seen as being of interest to the Joycean, these are essentials:
This is just another Martello Tower on Ireland's coast, fortresses built for defense against Napoleon's fleet. What sets it apart is not the fact that nude men bath in its shadow and in public view (at the "40 Foot") - but a short stay that Joyce enjoyed there as a guest of Oliver St. John Gogarty. Joyce also choose the tower as Leopold Bloom's starting place in "Ulysses". Today the tower holds a museum dedicated to all things Joycean. Curiously Joyce fled the tower after being shot at by his host.
2. Joyce Statue, O'Connell Street
One of Dublin's most photographed statues stands at the corner of North Earl Street and
O'Connell Street. Lovingly called "The Prick with the Stick", Joyce in typical attire seems to gaze at Dublin life hustling and bustling by, the
General Post Office and the Spire. The statue by Marjorie FitzGibbon was commissioned by local business associations.
If you are into "Ulysses" this is heaven ... several dozen biographies of characters from the book are illustrated, all were based on real Dubliners. The house itself was used by Professor Dennis J Maginni, the dance instructor. And nearby is Belvedere College, where Joyce received his eductation from the Jesuits.
Joyce himself is buried in Zurich (Switzerland), but Glasnevin Cemetery is of special interest to Joyceans. John Stanislaus Joyce and his wife Mary Jane are interred here, James Joyce's parents. In "Ulysses" the Hades-episode describes the funeral of Paddy Dignam - a fictional event based on the funeral of Matthew F. Kane ... who has a special Joycean gravestone since 1988. Many other graves mentioned in or connected to Joyce's works are in Glasnevin - Nannetti, Thomas Harrington, John Henry Menton, John Hooper, Canon O'Hanlon, Skin-the-Goat ...
5. Joyce Walk through Dublin
The James Joyce Culural Centre (see above) offers guided walks through Dublin in Joyce's (often fictional) footsteps. If you want a walk on your own, just follow the trail of the 14 pavement plaques installed in 1988 - from the old offices of the "Irish Independent" to the
National Museum in Kildare Street via O'Connell Street and Bridge,
Trinity College, Grafton Street, Duke Street and Dawson Street.
6. Joyce Bust and UCD, St. Stephen's Green
A far less photogenic bust of Joyce by Marjorie FitzGibbon can be found in St. Stephen's Green - but the area is much nicer if you want to get stuck into your copy of "Ulysses" with the author gazing at you, a sceletal hand going for the throat. The bust is located opposite University College Dublin (UCD) - where Joyce actually was a student. Have a look at the splendid University Church while you are here.The pub in which Bloom feasted on a gorgonzola sandwich and red wine for lunch - not served anymore, but the hostelry is still well worth a visit. The best spot to take the weight off your legs when exploring Dublin's Joycean heritage.
8. 7 Eccles Street
The fictional home of Leopold and Molly Bloom in "Ulysses" was razed to the ground and made way for the Mater Private Hospital. But the literary connection is acknowledged by a large bronze plaque next to the hospital entrance. Some fine (restored) Georgian architecture can be found on the opposite side of the street.Since 1991 this museum caters for fans of all Irish writers. Though not explicitly Joycean it is certainly worth a visit. The splendid house itself, the exhibitions, a good café and a specialist bookstore make it a must-see for all those with a literary interest. The entrance fee might deter casual visitors.
If you are a serious Joycean you have to stop here - this library holds priceless first as well as other editions of Joyce's work, some paraphernalia and a copy of every book published in Ireland. You have to obtain a visitor's pass and, above all, be quiet to actually visit the reading rooms.
